The short answer is: Select the right BREEDER because selecting the right breeder can mean life and death - for the cat or kitten you buy = literally!
But HOW to choose the RIGHT breeder
Some people, especially first time owners, "shop" for a kitten the same way they do for a pair of shoes. And it is quite understandable since this "market" is completely new to them. There are SO many websites, SO many breeds and breeders - so how do you decide where to go and what kitten to buy? Ask any experienced owner of a pure-bred pet and the unfortunate reality is that SO many of them have already experienced a heartbreak of losing their pet and a lot of their money treating it for some issues that could have been avoided should they had the knowledge in the first place.
And sometimes it is neither of the two above terrible cases but just the emotional disappointment of losing a dream - a pet that is not a "pet" but a stranger in the house that wants nothing to do with you or your other family members, or an animal that grows up to resemble none of the aesthetic parameters you you've expected from a pure-bred and spend so much money for! Sometimes you would realize that you would have been much better off with a friendly "alley-cat"! - TRUST me, not only many of my clients but also I've been in these shoes myself and want NOBODY to go through the similar experience.
There are many breeds and breeders of purebred cats and dogs in the world and each of them tells you that they are the best. Although it is a very personal decision of whom you would like or not, here are some tips that I hope will help you decide where most definitely NOT to buy and WHY not.
But, first of all, NEVER-EVER search for a puppy or kitten on common internet sales sites, such as Kijiji or any other lists. Reputable breeders never even post there and these sites are full of scammers that may show you stolen pictures of cats that do not even belong to them.
Second - never shop for a price you have in your head or you can afford. You would try to buy a Volvo for $2K unless you are ready to compromise on the year, right? Everything has its price and reputable breeders will not bargain with you because to raise a great kitten costs money - a lot of it - and they are already selling you at the lowest price they find reasonable considering their expenses. BUT, some will "cut corners" and compromise on quality of their cats, kittens and their practices. If the offered cost is much lower than the average on the market for such a pet, remember - there is always a compromise!
Third - how did you learn about this breeder?
Have you heard from other people you know or communicated with about their pets from that breeder? - This is a good place to start and get references.
ALL reputable breeders have to be registered with professional associations - check if they are affiliated. For cats, it is TICA and CFA in Canada and US and WCF and FIFe in Europe. For dogs, it is CKC and AKC respectively. Check how long have they been registered too. They may be just a beginner that is only learning "the ropes" - would you want them to be learning on your experience?
Does this breeder have a website that seems legitimate? Read everything they post and promise. The most important things to learn is not to look through the cute pictures of their cats and kittens but information about the breeder him/herself (i.e., breeding experience and education - YES, breeders do have to have specific education! - , their breeding goals, their cattery/kennel) and each individual queen and stud: do they check them for common health problems that every breed tends to have? Do they post this information openly? Do they display the pedigree of each cat, so you know where these cats come from? - Obviously, you may not be able to read and understand this information in completely but when it is hidden from the view, you need to ask yourself a question - WHAT is there that is hidden and WHY?
So what specific questions should you ask the breeder and what things should you pay attention to in particular when you visit their website and/or home/cattery?
Although whether or not your first communication with the breeder - usually in writing - can be quite impersonal (i.e., formal application) your objective observations of the information they provide openly is very important:
= Where did it come from (original breeding location and cattery name)
= Registered name
= Pedigree
= Health information through formal testing
Most people look only at the cute cat pictures on the website and do not care (or do not know that it is critically important to care) about this objective data. They would sometimes not even understand that the health-related issues may be due to closely related breeding (i.e., inbreeding) of their cats that can only be verified by looking at the pedigree. I would be very suspicious of a breeder that does not provide such information. The main difference between the pure-bred animals and alley-cats is their pedigree: what lines are in their genetic makeup. You may not know HOW to look at the particular pedigree or WHAT to look for but if a breeder does not provide this information - is it really pure-bred animals with a proven history of breeding through generations that they are selling or are they a so called "back-yard breeders"?
One quick tip for discovering a back-yard breeder is by checking how OFTEN the same queen is bred: NO queen should have her litter LESS than a minimum of 8 months apart - and even that should be only in exceptional circumstances. Cat's pregnancy lasts 2 months (9 weeks) and then she should remain with her kittens for a MINIMUM of 12 weeks until kittens go home. It will take her a minimum of 3 more months to recover from the delivery and nursing. If she is bred again in shorter amount of time, not only her own health has not been restored but her kittens' health may be compromised long-term! In addition, if a breeder allows such "abuse" with her own animals, just imagine how much she cares about the kittens she sells :(
Another important information that should be clearly visible is about their litters:
Here are some other things to consider and questions to ask:
Have more questions? - Ask away - I am always glad to answer them but majority of question you can think of have been already answered either
on this website or in my special Facebook group for clients. But, sorry, - this support is available only to my existing clients.
Some of questions answered in the general category of this Blog.
For instance:
What is the difference and should I get a Purebred or a mongrel? - short answer: personal preference but you get what you paid for.
Traditional vs Neva Masquerade - short answer: there is NO difference in Siberian standard but special restrictions in color.
Spay/Neuter - VERY important topic, so I will urge you to explore in detail!
What should you get with your kitten, etc.
Some others, I will try to answer briefly here. But the MOST important advice I will give you is this:
NEVER buy a kitten on a spur of a moment and do NOT go to see the kittens before you have learned about the breed and the breeder!
"Been there, done that..." This may be a VERY costly mistake. There is nothing cuter than a little animal, whether it is a kitten or a puppy, a lion or a squirrel, pure-bred or mutt, trust me - I've been dealing with them for almost 50 years now and still melt every time I see them.
And sometimes it is neither of the two above terrible cases but just the emotional disappointment of losing a dream - a pet that is not a "pet" but a stranger in the house that wants nothing to do with you or your other family members, or an animal that grows up to resemble none of the aesthetic parameters you you've expected from a pure-bred and spend so much money for! Sometimes you would realize that you would have been much better off with a friendly "alley-cat"! - TRUST me, not only many of my clients but also I've been in these shoes myself and want NOBODY to go through the similar experience.
There are many breeds and breeders of purebred cats and dogs in the world and each of them tells you that they are the best. Although it is a very personal decision of whom you would like or not, here are some tips that I hope will help you decide where most definitely NOT to buy and WHY not.
But, first of all, NEVER-EVER search for a puppy or kitten on common internet sales sites, such as Kijiji or any other lists. Reputable breeders never even post there and these sites are full of scammers that may show you stolen pictures of cats that do not even belong to them.
Second - never shop for a price you have in your head or you can afford. You would try to buy a Volvo for $2K unless you are ready to compromise on the year, right? Everything has its price and reputable breeders will not bargain with you because to raise a great kitten costs money - a lot of it - and they are already selling you at the lowest price they find reasonable considering their expenses. BUT, some will "cut corners" and compromise on quality of their cats, kittens and their practices. If the offered cost is much lower than the average on the market for such a pet, remember - there is always a compromise!
Third - how did you learn about this breeder?
Have you heard from other people you know or communicated with about their pets from that breeder? - This is a good place to start and get references.
ALL reputable breeders have to be registered with professional associations - check if they are affiliated. For cats, it is TICA and CFA in Canada and US and WCF and FIFe in Europe. For dogs, it is CKC and AKC respectively. Check how long have they been registered too. They may be just a beginner that is only learning "the ropes" - would you want them to be learning on your experience?
Does this breeder have a website that seems legitimate? Read everything they post and promise. The most important things to learn is not to look through the cute pictures of their cats and kittens but information about the breeder him/herself (i.e., breeding experience and education - YES, breeders do have to have specific education! - , their breeding goals, their cattery/kennel) and each individual queen and stud: do they check them for common health problems that every breed tends to have? Do they post this information openly? Do they display the pedigree of each cat, so you know where these cats come from? - Obviously, you may not be able to read and understand this information in completely but when it is hidden from the view, you need to ask yourself a question - WHAT is there that is hidden and WHY?
So what specific questions should you ask the breeder and what things should you pay attention to in particular when you visit their website and/or home/cattery?
Although whether or not your first communication with the breeder - usually in writing - can be quite impersonal (i.e., formal application) your objective observations of the information they provide openly is very important:
- Do they explain their experience and history with the breed and breeding?
- Do they provide detailed and mandatory information about each cat they breed, such as:
= Where did it come from (original breeding location and cattery name)
= Registered name
= Pedigree
= Health information through formal testing
Most people look only at the cute cat pictures on the website and do not care (or do not know that it is critically important to care) about this objective data. They would sometimes not even understand that the health-related issues may be due to closely related breeding (i.e., inbreeding) of their cats that can only be verified by looking at the pedigree. I would be very suspicious of a breeder that does not provide such information. The main difference between the pure-bred animals and alley-cats is their pedigree: what lines are in their genetic makeup. You may not know HOW to look at the particular pedigree or WHAT to look for but if a breeder does not provide this information - is it really pure-bred animals with a proven history of breeding through generations that they are selling or are they a so called "back-yard breeders"?
One quick tip for discovering a back-yard breeder is by checking how OFTEN the same queen is bred: NO queen should have her litter LESS than a minimum of 8 months apart - and even that should be only in exceptional circumstances. Cat's pregnancy lasts 2 months (9 weeks) and then she should remain with her kittens for a MINIMUM of 12 weeks until kittens go home. It will take her a minimum of 3 more months to recover from the delivery and nursing. If she is bred again in shorter amount of time, not only her own health has not been restored but her kittens' health may be compromised long-term! In addition, if a breeder allows such "abuse" with her own animals, just imagine how much she cares about the kittens she sells :(
Another important information that should be clearly visible is about their litters:
- Do they list the dates they were born, their parents and the information about each kitten?
- How kittens are raised, socialized and fed during their time in the cattery?
- When are they start on solid food and weaned from their mother's milk?
- When and what diseases they are vaccinated for?
- Do they follow up and update you with the development of the kittens through the time from birth to their "graduation"?
- Do they provide support and follow up with their clients after kittens go home?
- Are they active and known with the breeder community in their country?
Here are some other things to consider and questions to ask:
- There are many cat associations that advertise their breeders (not as many in Canada as in US, luckily) - is there a difference?
- In Siberian breed there are "traditional" and color-point Neva Masquerade. Which is better?
- Some breeders charge more (and MUCH more) money than others - should I shop and choose a cheaper one?
- Some breeders sell their kittens spayed/neutered but other do not. Are there any rules and regulations?
- Different breeders have different adoption process. Should they provide the minimum level of service? If yes, what it is?
- What documentation should I expect for my kitten?
- Do they allow visits with the kittens before they are selected?
- Do their litters live together and share environment with adult cats and other family members?
- Does/do their male cat/s live in the house and has free access to females?
Have more questions? - Ask away - I am always glad to answer them but majority of question you can think of have been already answered either
on this website or in my special Facebook group for clients. But, sorry, - this support is available only to my existing clients.
Some of questions answered in the general category of this Blog.
For instance:
What is the difference and should I get a Purebred or a mongrel? - short answer: personal preference but you get what you paid for.
Traditional vs Neva Masquerade - short answer: there is NO difference in Siberian standard but special restrictions in color.
Spay/Neuter - VERY important topic, so I will urge you to explore in detail!
What should you get with your kitten, etc.
Some others, I will try to answer briefly here. But the MOST important advice I will give you is this:
NEVER buy a kitten on a spur of a moment and do NOT go to see the kittens before you have learned about the breed and the breeder!
"Been there, done that..." This may be a VERY costly mistake. There is nothing cuter than a little animal, whether it is a kitten or a puppy, a lion or a squirrel, pure-bred or mutt, trust me - I've been dealing with them for almost 50 years now and still melt every time I see them.
|
My first puppy was unbearably cute 8 weeks old in the arms of dishonest owner of the unfortunate mother spaniel that obviously "misbehaved". I've been shown HER picture (the father was unknown deadbeat) but even if there were no picture, my hear was already won over. I pulled her ears and measured them daily, but in a couple months even to me it was completely clear that they will not grow longer than they would :(( Eventually, I HAD to admit that I was a fool that has been fooled.... So, after a while, I had started thinking about that "dream dog" again and, after a long and now careful research, despite loud protests from my husband, and after waiting appropriate amount of time for the RIGHT litter, the second dog joined our family. This time it WAS the dream dog I wanted.
And yet, few years later and with all my experience in pure-bred dogs (!) I have repeated almost the same mistake when buying my first pure-bred kitten! The kitten WAS indeed pure-bred, only it wasn't bred PROPERLY and not socialized at all! So instead of a cuddly ball of fluff in my lap I got a hissing stranger under my bed... Never say you are experienced with "animals" if until now you've only had one different species of animal. There is SO much to learn... |
Anyway, - back to breeders...
First rule of thumb: if you want a good kitten/puppy find a good breeder. Only good breeders produce good quality animals.
Second rule of thumb: when you've chosen the breeder, decide on the parents. Only good parents produce good progeny.
Sure, you MAY get LUCKY and get a healthy, beautiful and affectionate kitten from a bad breeder - the same way that an alley kitten MAY grow extremely beautiful and polite but if you are NOT a gambling type and will not be happy when the truth becomes obvious few months down the road when that kitten became part of your family, THINK, LEAR and RESEARCH first. THEN make your INFORMED decision and buy a pet that you always wanted. Remember, - this decision will affect your and your family's life for many years to come.
Probably the MOST important thing to learn about the breeder is how does he/she treat HIS OWN animals. i.e. raising, keeping and feeding, not only breeding queens and toms? Because if they are not taking good care of their own animals, do you think they will take proper care of YOUR kittens?
> But HOW would you know if they do? - Very simple, - inquire about the following:
What food do they feed their animals? - If you haven't yet, learn about species appropriate diet. Breeding queen has to be kept on a particularly rich diet that allows her to not only preserve her own health but provide the best she can give to her babies.
How often do they allow their queens to be bred and how long to rest? - The MINIMUM amount of time between breeding should not be less than 8 months. With 9 weeks of pregnancy and 9-12 weeks of nursing time, this leaves less than 3 months for a queen to recover. And recover she NEEDS! Her body is significantly depleted of nutrients, particularly Ca and proteins that she used up during that time. 3 months barely gives her an absolute MINIMUM time to restore her own body, let alone start a new process with the next litter.
ALL cat association breeding guidelines suggest that the breeding should NOT be allowed to happen more often than 3 times in 2 years (i.e. min of 8 months) - and yet, some registered breeders breed their queens THREE times in ONE year! This means - unplanned and uncontrolled breeding OR intentional breeding as often as possible to maximize their profits for the price of causing long-term damage to the queen and her kittens.
If former is the case, the breeder is NOT a good, conscientious or knowledgeable breeder.
If the latter is - you are dealing with a "back-yard breeder" or a kitten-mill. Do NOT encourage such practices by buying from them!
For a kitten-mill to exist, cats do not have to be in the outside cages. It's the attitude towards them that matters.
Some other questions to ask:
First rule of thumb: if you want a good kitten/puppy find a good breeder. Only good breeders produce good quality animals.
Second rule of thumb: when you've chosen the breeder, decide on the parents. Only good parents produce good progeny.
Sure, you MAY get LUCKY and get a healthy, beautiful and affectionate kitten from a bad breeder - the same way that an alley kitten MAY grow extremely beautiful and polite but if you are NOT a gambling type and will not be happy when the truth becomes obvious few months down the road when that kitten became part of your family, THINK, LEAR and RESEARCH first. THEN make your INFORMED decision and buy a pet that you always wanted. Remember, - this decision will affect your and your family's life for many years to come.
Probably the MOST important thing to learn about the breeder is how does he/she treat HIS OWN animals. i.e. raising, keeping and feeding, not only breeding queens and toms? Because if they are not taking good care of their own animals, do you think they will take proper care of YOUR kittens?
> But HOW would you know if they do? - Very simple, - inquire about the following:
What food do they feed their animals? - If you haven't yet, learn about species appropriate diet. Breeding queen has to be kept on a particularly rich diet that allows her to not only preserve her own health but provide the best she can give to her babies.
How often do they allow their queens to be bred and how long to rest? - The MINIMUM amount of time between breeding should not be less than 8 months. With 9 weeks of pregnancy and 9-12 weeks of nursing time, this leaves less than 3 months for a queen to recover. And recover she NEEDS! Her body is significantly depleted of nutrients, particularly Ca and proteins that she used up during that time. 3 months barely gives her an absolute MINIMUM time to restore her own body, let alone start a new process with the next litter.
ALL cat association breeding guidelines suggest that the breeding should NOT be allowed to happen more often than 3 times in 2 years (i.e. min of 8 months) - and yet, some registered breeders breed their queens THREE times in ONE year! This means - unplanned and uncontrolled breeding OR intentional breeding as often as possible to maximize their profits for the price of causing long-term damage to the queen and her kittens.
If former is the case, the breeder is NOT a good, conscientious or knowledgeable breeder.
If the latter is - you are dealing with a "back-yard breeder" or a kitten-mill. Do NOT encourage such practices by buying from them!
For a kitten-mill to exist, cats do not have to be in the outside cages. It's the attitude towards them that matters.
Some other questions to ask:
- When do they allow their kittens to go to new homes? - It should NEVER happen earlier than 12 weeks, unless there are exceptional circumstances.
- How early do they wean their kittens? - In my cattery and kennel I let moms decide when they are ready. Some moms continue to nurse even longer than 12 weeks but never less than 10. If the kittens have been weaned earlier than 10 weeks, they have to receive at least 6 times a day after weaning.
- How many litters do they have simultaneously? - More than 2 litters of different ages growing together can be very unhealthy for the kittens because each queen may be highly protective of her own kittens and intimidate other kittens. Also, if one litter develops an infection, all other kittens will too. If young kittens are mixing with adult cats at home the possibility of infection is even higher as adults may harbor some pathogens that they have well adjusted to and do not show any symptoms while for the not fully developed immune system of a kitten there may be deadly consequences.
- When do they introduce supplemental feeding, how often and what it is? - Remember that if a kitten is growing on one type of food only, it will be almost impossible to re-train them to accept different foods later. The worst type of feeding for kittens is a dry food on-demand, i.e. always available for them to nibble on.
- Where do they raise their litters? - Obviously, if kittens and mothers are kept in cages it is not a good environment for them and socialization cannot be properly provided. Young kittens require both protective and stimulating environment to develop their social, mental and physical skills to be great pets. But running under foot in a small apartment trying to hide from and escape from small children is not a good environment either and may create a cat that will be shy of humans, children in particular.
- Does a breeder show their breeding animals? - If not, they may be "cutting corners". Why showing breeding parents is important? Showing for the breeding stock is not a vanity but a requirement because only experienced qualified practitioner like an independent judge can properly assess the quality of the animal, its adherence to the breed standard and discover possible genetic defects (such as kinked tail and others) that a buyer or even a novice breeder may not be able to detect and they will be passed to the next generation.
- How long has the breeder been breeding and does he/she have any formal qualifications? - There are continuous education courses available for breeders on many aspects of breeding, especially genetics because it is important to understand which cats CAN be mated together in order to preserve and improve the standard and , particularly, not to proliferate genetic defects.
- What kind of client education before and after the sale the breeder provides? - Do they answer all your questions confidently, refer you to appropriate resources and offer help with your kitten should you need it?
- Does your breeder provide you with the complete health information of the parents, including referral to their own local vet? - Some Canadian breeders prefer to take their litters to the US vets for cheaper prices there and you have no way to verify that the COMPLETE information about the litter and the parents is available (for instance, if there were still births or genetic defects during and post-delivery).
- Does the breeder advertise their planned litters and born litter at the time of their birth? Do they provide you with an up-to-date information about kittens' progress during their growth & development? - Sometimes the information about the litters is provided only after 6-8 weeks when the vulnerable period is over. Be particularly careful with small litters of 4 or less kittens and especially single-kitten litters - it can be a sign of a partially lost litter due to common neonatal illnesses.